Waterproof Concrete Crack Filler
Waterproof Concrete Crack Filler
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Returns & 12-month warranty
Returns & 12-month warranty
30 days to change your mind. From the day it arrives, for any reason at all — including simply not getting on with it. No restocking fee. The tool needs to come back unused with its accessories and packaging.
12-month warranty. Against defects in the tool or its batteries. That covers a motor, a switch or a battery that stops working in normal use. It does not cover consumables or damage from an accident.
Damaged, faulty or missing parts? Email info@yardedgepro.com with your order number and a photo. That is our mistake to fix, at our cost.
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Payment & security
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Questions before you buy? Email info@yardedgepro.com and a person will answer you.
You have walked over it since about March. You have noticed it roughly four hundred times. You have never once had the bottle, the brush and twenty spare minutes in the same place on the same dry afternoon.
Here is the thing nobody mentions about that crack: it has a deadline, and the deadline is the first hard freeze.
Why water is the whole story
Water expands by about nine percent when it turns to ice. That is not a rounding error. It is a wedge.
So it rains, and water runs along the slab and finds the crack, because the crack is the lowest path available. The temperature drops overnight. The water inside freezes and pushes the two faces apart by a fraction of a millimetre. By morning it has thawed, the gap is very slightly wider than it was, and so it holds a little more water the next time.
Repeat that forty or fifty times across one winter and you no longer have a hairline. You have a gap you can get a finger into, with crumbling edges. Repeat it for three winters and you have a section of slab that has broken free and started to move.
Sealing it on a dry afternoon costs a few dollars and twenty minutes. A crack with no water in it cannot be widened by ice — that is the entire principle, and it is why this job belongs in autumn rather than spring.
Before anything else
Is this a crack you should be sealing yourself?
Some cracks are a sealing job. Some are a symptom, and sealing those is like painting over damp. This is the part most guides skip and it matters more than any technique.
Seal it yourself if
- It is hairline or narrow — under about a quarter of an inch
- Both sides sit level with each other
- It has not obviously changed since you first noticed it
- It runs across a slab rather than up a wall
Get it looked at if
- It is wider than a quarter of an inch
- One side sits higher than the other — you can feel the lip underfoot
- It runs the full height of a foundation or basement wall
- It is visibly bigger than it was last year
We are not going to sell you a bottle for a structural problem. Nothing in a bottle fixes a slab that is moving or a wall being pushed by the ground behind it. If your crack is in that second list, spend the fifteen dollars on nothing at all and get a builder or a structural engineer to look at it — filling it would only hide the evidence you need to show them.
The job, start to finish
Less equipment than you think. A stiff brush, something to pick the loose material out with, a vacuum or a leaf blower, and a dry afternoon.
Dry, above freezing, with nothing coming in the next few hours. This is the step people get wrong and it decides whether the repair holds. Filler needs a clean dry surface to bond to; a crack that is damp at the bottom will take the filler and let go of it by spring.
Run a screwdriver or an old chisel along it to dislodge crumbled edges, grit, moss and old sealant. You want sound concrete on both sides, not dust. It feels like you are making the crack worse. You are making the repair stick.
Brush it out, then blow or vacuum the dust away. Filler poured onto dust bonds to the dust, and the dust is not attached to anything. If you own a leaf blower this takes four seconds and is the best part of the job.
Run it along the crack steadily and let it find its own level — that is what self-levelling means and it is the whole reason this is a twenty-minute job rather than an afternoon with a trowel. On a deep crack, fill to just below the surface first; it is easier to add a second pass than to clean up an overfill.
Resist smoothing it over repeatedly. It is still moving for the first few minutes and poking at it leaves marks that set permanently. Pour, check it has levelled, walk away.
Surface dry in about thirty minutes, cured in about two hours. Give it longer again before putting a car over it, and longer still if it is cold — the label assumes a warm workshop and your driveway is not one.
Which size
200 ml
$15.99
A few cracks around a step, a sill, a threshold or a patch of garage floor. The size to buy if you have one specific thing in mind.
500 ml
$31.99
The one to take if you are walking the length of a driveway, or if you intend to do the round of the house described below — and most people who start do.
While you have the bottle out
The driveway is the obvious one, but it is rarely the only crack on a property, and nobody wants to do this twice.
What it will look like afterwards
Grey. Close to ordinary concrete, which is what most driveways and garage floors are, so on those surfaces the repair stops announcing itself within a few weeks of weathering.
It will not be invisible, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling. On a coloured, stained, brushed or power-floated finish you will see the line. That is a fair trade for keeping water out of a slab, but you should know it before you pour rather than after.
| Application | Pours and self-levels — no mixing, no trowel |
| Surface dry | About 30 minutes |
| Fully cured | About 2 hours |
| Colour | Concrete grey |
| Use | Indoor and outdoor, horizontal and joins |
| Sizes | 200 ml and 500 ml |
Questions people ask first
How soon can I drive on it?
Surface off in about half an hour, cured in about two. Give it longer than you think before a car goes over it, and considerably longer in cold weather.
Can I do it once it is properly freezing?
No — and this is the real reason to do the job in October. Below freezing it will not cure properly. It may look fine for a week. It will not last the winter.
What if I overfill it?
Try not to. A bead of filler standing proud of the slab gets caught by a snow shovel, a plough blade or a tyre and torn out, taking the repair with it. Flush, or very slightly below, is what you want.
Will it stick if the crack is damp at the bottom?
No. Deep cracks hold water long after the surface looks dry, and filler that cannot bond sits in the gap like a plug rather than gripping the sides — the first freeze pops it straight out. A warm dry day does that work for you.
What if it is not for me?
Thirty days, money back, no restocking fee.
Twenty minutes now, or a quote in April
This is one of the rare jobs where the cheap version and the right version are the same thing. There is no premium approach that works better — there is only doing it before the water freezes, or doing it after the damage is done.
We walked through the whole job, including the cracks people forget, in the workshop journal. And the rest of what gets a house through winter is in One Less Chore.
Free shipping across the United States and Canada, tracked, usually 7 to 10 days. Thirty days to change your mind.
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Free shipping on every order to the United States and Canada, with no minimum spend. Every order is tracked and the tracking number is emailed to you the moment the parcel leaves. Delivery normally takes 7 to 10 days. There is nothing to choose and nothing extra to pay at checkout.
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Thirty days to change your mind
Use it at home for a full month. If it turns out to be wrong for you, send it back for a full refund — no restocking fee, no argument, and a real person answers the email.